I wake up feeling dizzy and weak: The last two days have taken their toll on me and my throat is sore. I realize that even if I manage to replace the broken bottom bracket during the day, cycling is out of the question.
But after getting up, I quickly feel better and the hope arises that one rest day is sufficient to restore my spent energy. Much to my surprise, the only bike shop in Villarrica has one matching replacement bottom bracket. The shopkeeper tells me he can have my bike repaired in the afternoon.
The good news contribute to my recovery, but just to be sure I indulge in several delicious and high-caloric bites from one of the many local bakeries. Already feeling stronger, I decide to visit Lican Ray, a nearby town on the shores of Lago Calafquén, the next lake just a short way to the south.
Lican Ray, 13:42
The weather gods seem to have found some mercy in their hearts and every once in a while, the sun peeks through narrow gaps between the clouds. Still, the bus I take to Lican Ray gets sprayed three times in less than thirty minutes.
The laketown is not too exciting and utterly empty: literally nobody seems to go there during off season, and I roam the town’s narrow dirt roads alone. The small boats lying on the shore instill a hint of sadness in the gloomy light. Even though the sun comes out briefly during my visit, I spend little more than one hour in Lican Ray before I jump on the next bus back to Villarrica.
The short excursion has recharged my batteries, and when I pick up my repaired bike at the shop, I feel motivated to go riding again. To celebrate my new-found enthusiasm, I visit the pizzeria recommended by the travel guide I downloaded back in Valparaíso. The pizza is as delicious as the author claims, but in spite of its rather small size, it carries a hefty price tag. I blush when I realize that I do not have enough money to pay for my dinner.
The owner is cool about it and I dash to the hotel to pick up more cash. When I come back, the owner and his wife are sitting at one of the tables with another man, and they invite me to a piece of the fresh bread they are sharing. They turn out to be wonderfully friendly, and I am surprised to find out that the man they are talking to runs an artisanal brewery close to Villarrica. Needless to say, I try one of his creations, a mild and malty treat. We keep talking for a while and it is already late when I get up and go back to the hotel, feeling ready for more adventures during the next days.
Go to Day Four.